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'剃发易服'法令中设计文化之殇

Vol.7 No.3 2017 DESIGN RESEARCH 设计艺术研究99

中图分类号:J0 文献标识码:A doi:10.3963/j.issn.2095-0705.2017.03.018(0099-05)王旋WANG Xuan

安徽工程大学,安徽 芜湖241000(Anhui Polytechnic University,241000 Wuhu Anhui )

18摘要:甲申国难,清军入关即强势推行“剃发易服”法令,为报复汉族人民的激烈反抗行为,清军由北及南,制造了扬州十日、嘉定三屠、江阴八十一日等惨案,屠杀各族人民数以千万计。“剃发易服”作为满蒙统治者强迫其统治下各族人民归顺的“设计案例”,映射了设计者与受众间的深刻矛盾。这一场惨绝人寰的长期屠杀,其根本目的是为在文化上打击汉族文化与精神,重新设计规划国家的意识形态,重塑价值与文化观念等,从而更加牢固地统治国家。随着时间的推移以及全球化的影响,而今中国人不识汉服,是设计文化之殇后遗留的历史问题。

关键词:剃发易服;文化符号;设计心理

Abstract: At the destruction of the Ming Dynasty, Qing government after taking over the country started to strongly push forward the order “changing, shaving and clothing”. To retaliate against the fierce resistance of the Han people, Qing army from north to south conducted massacres in Jia Ding 3 times, Yang Zhou for 10 days, and 81 days in Jiang Yin, during which tens of millions of the Han people were killed. Such enforcing order to guarantee surrender and obedience from all ethnic peoples is like a "designing case" which reflects the conflict between the designer and the receiver. This long-term slaughter is fundamentally purposed to destroy the culture and spirit of the Han people to reprogram the ideology, value and cultural concepts for the whole country, so as to enhance its governance. However, with a passage of long time and influence of globalization, so far Chinese people can barely recognize the Hans clothing. It finally becomes a historical problems left as the cultural trauma.

Key words: shaving and clothing ;cultural symbol ; design psychology

“剃发易服”法令中设计文化之殇

A Design Trauma Reflected in the Order of Changing Shaving and Clothing

收稿日期:2017-05-19

作者简介:王旋,安徽工程大学艺术学院硕士研究生。一、满清的视觉符号传达设计与汉文

化的差异

在人类社会中,群体的归属是一种普遍存在

的需求,群体归属可以让人们产生历史责任感以

及对文化的认同感。群体间的关系,可以由穿着

打扮类外在象征展现出来,并具有明确的识别性。

不同民族的发式与服饰特色,象征着不同的民族

社会与文化核心,有助于形成共同的且可反映整

个社会阶级文化的民族观。在中国漫长的历史中,不乏被外族统治的经历,也曾被要求剃发易服。统治者往往需要一个共同的符号来象征其统治权力,而统一的发式和服饰,就类似于国旗、国徽等具有象征涵义的标志。这一符号的设定,是为潜移默化影响属地百姓,并增强其对于新群体的归属意识[1]106-109。满清“剃发易服”法令传递的两个符号信息正是统治阶级的象征,一是“剃发”,一是“易服”。

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